Alternator terminal identification

MCR19 Registration is now open! Click for event thread. I've been plagued by an ongoing charging issue. Truck is aoriginally had a 22r, but I swapped to a 20r. The regulator has the irregular oval plug, with 5 blades. I'm hoping someone has the same setup and can identify for me the wire that I've realized was torn clean off at some point. The attached diagram should help explain what I'm talking about. Note the wire colors that I was able to best identify don't jive at all with any of the FSM wiring diagrams I have referenced.

I'm hoping someone can help me out with a color, or even better, the destination of where this wire goes in regards to the alternator or vehicle loom Picture I'm far from a wiring guru, but it seems to me that the attached schematic shows my configuration. External reg with 5 wires. Correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I'm interpreting the wire colors to be Red, Yellow, White and Green, meaning the one I'm missing is B or black or blue?

This diagram also shows that it's one of the integral wires going directly to the alternator. This would be a clear cause of failure to charge if this is the case. I will have to peek inside the wire loom and see if the mystery wire broke off inside somewhere Is my interpretation completely off on this?

I just took a quick look and I noticed that the wire in the pigtail coming off the regulator that lines up with the one I'm missing is black. All others are white with colored indicator stripes I'm starting to thing the missing wire may be a ground. Can anyone confirm this? Broken ground would be the best case scenario. I temporarily grounded the wire in question. Either the wire is not a ground or the problem lies elsewhere. I put a fully charged battery into the truck and tested the voltage.

Started the engine and checked the battery voltage while it ran. Increasing the RPMs, blipping the throttle had zero effect on this number, so I'm still searching. Did some more testing.

alternator terminal identification

Pulled my attention away from the regulator at the moment. The alternator doesn't appear to be charging no magnetic field on the back of the case when running. But I have no reason to believe it's bad yet. Took the voltmeter to the harness plug that the alternator plugs into expecting to find and ignition hot igna constant hot sense and the lamp wire.

All that showed on the meter was the ignition hot. My plan now is to run a jumper wire from the battery to the sense terminal on the alt so that I can truly test the alternator's functionality. Problem is, I can't determine which terminal is which on the back of the alt. For the record, my plug type is like the one shown below. Found another clue and answer to my above question. I'm going to jump power to that sense terminal and see if the alternator operates correctly then.

That should tell me if a fusible link blew on that sense wire or something.We are commonly asked how to wire the Delco SI series alternators upon maintenance or upgrading from an older generator. If you are looking for the no charge indicator light on the dash to function as well, this should help determine which connection to use.

The ignition switch is most commonly powered from the starter battery stud, but source may vary depending on application. With key on power is then transferred through the no charge indicator light to the 1 spade on the alternator regulator connection. Depending on switch circuitry there may also be a diode before the 1 spade to prevent the current when charging from back feeding the ignition switch and not allowing unit shut down.

The third spade connection in this diagram is optional and will not be present on all units. This is one of the three phase connections and is most commonly used to function electronic tachometers. This connection is not necessary for unit to function even if it is present. The 1 regulator connection must be off with ignition off to prevent battery drain. Alternator ground connection is the casing, grounding back through bracketing and eventually through battery ground cable.

Make sure all connections, including battery ground cable, are clean and tight. Always use caution when modifying a system. Hi Peter — the should be a good replacement with the R terminal to operate the tach. Can anyone recommend an alternator with AC tap to operate a tach.? Output should be about 60 amp. Just make sure it goes off with key off.

It could be either, the tachometer is reading the speed of the alternator regardless of what type of engine is powering it. Blade three is used for the tachometer. Would you engine need to be a gas for the tachometer to work or can it work with a diesel? Your name. Your email. Your message. Share this postThe first G-series was the 1G externally regulated alternator.

The 2G was the second, but uses a power plug instead of battery posts and cannot be upgraded. Usually swapped to the 3G Series which is still in use and is easily upgraded. The 3G Series alternator features internal fans and voltage regulator. First G-series to have internal voltage regulator. Same size diameter as the 3G, but the 4G has a black metallic cover on the rear.

Uses the same plug as the 3G series alternator.

alternator terminal identification

We believe the 3G is the superior alternator, but the 4G series comes in several unique mounting styles which aren't compatible with 3G series alternators. The 4G series side mount looks visually similar to the 3G series Side Mount, but the mounting holes do not line up.

This series is very similar to the 3G series that came before. The stator is the same, but the rotor, housings, rectifier, and regulator are different. Computer controlled voltage regulators were also more common in this style of charging system than in the previous generations.

The 6G series alternator came in both large and small case versions. The mounting styles are largely the same as the previous generations, though there are several mounting configurations which are only available in the small case size.

All rights reserved. Trade marks and trade names used for reference purpose only. Alternators By. Search Pages: Find. Search Pages: Search. Toggle navigation Main Menu.

How to Wire a Denso Alternator

Lester Nos:, Mounting ear, M8 x 1. Lester Nos:M8 x 1. Site Map Privacy Policy.Denso make aftermarket car parts for many cars, ranging from air-conditioning components, alternators and fuel pumps to smaller items such as spark plugs and wiper blades.

Denso's regular aftermarket alternators produce between 40 and amperes, depending on the type, but they also produce vehicle specific alternators that can produce greater amperes. Alternator wiring varies on the type of Denso alternator fitted in your car, but it generally fall into two categories: three-terminal wiring or four-terminal wiring.

Put on lightweight protective rubber gloves before wiring your Denso alternator. You may accidentally touch a battery terminal and you certainly will get your hands dirty if you don't wear them. Locate the black and red battery cables attached to your car battery, as you must disconnect them before wiring your Denso alternator. Remove the black cable attached to the negative battery terminal using a wrench.

The terminal is labeled "Neg" or "-". This isolates electricity from the car. Remove the red cable attached to the positive battery terminal using a wrench. Move the two cables away from the battery terminals. Look on the back of the Denso alternator to find if it has three or four terminals. Follow the Steps in Section 2 and Section 4 if it has three terminals or follow the Steps in Section 3 and Section 4 if it has four terminals.

Look at the terminals and labeling on the back of the Denso alternator. One has a large plastic socket labeled "B" or "Bat". The other two are smaller sockets and are labeled "Ig" and "S" or "SL". Locate two thin wires near the Denso alternator.

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You will find they have plastic plugs on the end and are slightly different sizes. The opposite end of one wire goes to the ignition warning lights, while the other is a low voltage wire that goes to the fuse box. Each plug can only fit into the correct socket, so insert one of the plugs into one of the sockets. If it fits, simply push it in until it clicks. Insert the plug on the wire into the small socket.Mustangs have had alternator charging systems since Augustwhen all Fords and Mercurys became so equipped.

Alternators are clearly better than generators in that they maintain a steady charge at all engine speeds, including idle. There was the radio, heater, lighting, occasionally horns, and the ignition system.

Today, alternators have a much larger job to do thanks to all the accessories we like to install in automobiles that offer the comforts of home. When you start adding subwoofer sound systems, power windows and locks, high-intensity headlights, electric cooling fans, and the rest of it, it can make an older Autolite 1G alternator sweat with anxiety trying to keep up with the load.

Cool thing is, you can uprate an older 1G amp to amp with the right parts, or fit your classic with an uprated 1G for a stealthy improvement. Alternator selection boils down to electrical demand. Output must be greater than demand or you wind up with dim headlights and a dead battery. Showroom stockers can get by with original equipment—the externally-regulated Autolite 1G common from to are all interchangeable. InFord stepped up the charging system demand with the internally regulated 2G alternator, which looks basically like the 1G, only with a 2G-specific wiring harness.

The 2G was common to all Mustangs from to It was replaced by the 3G inthen the 4G and 6G later. Not only were there differences in amperage rating, but also pulley sizing, width, and type, in either one-groove or two.

Most small- and big-block Fords had a 2. The High-Performance V-8 alternators had a larger 3. Dual-groove pulleys are 3. Pulley size, number of grooves, and amp rating depended upon application. Alternator fan type is also very important to both identification and function. According to Jack Brooks at www. Those first 1G alternators had the flat blade fan used before March Beginning in Marcha more sculptured stronger blade fan was used on the 1G.

Beginning November 17,the 1G got a blade fan fewer, wider bladeswhich was used through the end of 1G production in This blade fan was also used on the internally regulated Motorcraft 2G alternator from Because these 1G cores have been so scattered through rebuilds and salvage yards over the years, expect to see a wide variety of mismatched parts.

Beginning with the changeover to Motorcraft inFord redesigned the 1G case with a square corner housing, which was used through the end of 1G production in You will see mix-matched round and square housings, blade fans with round cases, blade fans with square cases, and so on.

You may get exactly what you want or wind up with a mix-matched case combination. If you have an Autolite or Motorcraft 1G alternator original to your Mustang, there are excellent resources where it can be rebuilt and massaged to perfection.

The 1G is pretty consistent throughout its production history, along with the Mustangs it bolts into. You are better off having your 1G rebuilt by a trusted source. Although purists and restorers have spent a lot of time trying to sort out 1G alternator case differences, there are no pat answers.

Alternator Terminal Identification

There are aftermarket 1G cases as well adding to the confusion. Ideally, you will find a complete 1G core or castings appropriate for your restoration.I just got this alternator from my grandpa and am going to use it in a generator I'm working on but I Don't know what kind it is.

He told me its a one wire but it has some prongs on the top. Any information is helpful and help is greatly appreciated. Best Answer 6 years ago. On the internal regulator alternator the two prongs go to the ignition one should go to the battery the other goes to the alternator indicator. On the external regulator alternator the two prongs go to the 2 of the 4 prongs of the external regulator, the two other prongs on the regulator do the same as the internal regulator alternator.

You should need a 3 Hp small engine to run it geared up or more to about rpm to rpm max.

How to Identify Alternator Terminals

Answer 6 years ago. So my grandpa was wrong its not a one wire?

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Assuming the alternator is working and has an internal regulator the two prongs go to the ignition one should go to the battery the other goes to the alternator indicator. Most people wire it like this pic I would wire it with a double pole to cut power to both pins to prevent draining of the battery.

I realize this thread is 2 years old, but I have some information that wasn't posted by anybody else and it might help somebody with a similar question. This is either a 10si or a 12si Delco alternator, most likely a 10si.

Exciting a Delco 3 Wire Alternator

Virtually all Delco alternators of this vintage have a model number stamped on the front case just behind the belt tension bolt "ear". The first line is the specific model number and the "63A" is the rated output - in this case, 63 amps.

These virtually identical alternators were rated differently for different applications, so you could see anything hovering around 60 amps plus or minus 20 or so. The second line contains some sort of build code which probably means nothing to anybody but a Delco engineer, and the "12NEG", obviously, indicated 12 volt negative ground. I'm sure positive ground alternators exist - and will as long as England exists! You can make this a "1 wire" alternator by making a simple short jumper wire with a female bayonet connector on one end and a post connector large enough to fit on the BAT post on the other.

Plug the bayonet end onto the "2" terminal may be marked "F" and the other on the BAT post. In a pinch, you can just wrap the wire around the "BAT:" post - I just like to be neat when fussing with electronics.

The dash light was powered from the ignition "on" terminal and grounded by the alternator internal voltage regulator via the "1" terminal. The "2" terminal is used to "excite" the rotating magnetic field. Alternator rotors are not permanent magnets, they are electromagnets, and they need to be "jumped" at start up aka "excited", or "bootstrapped" to computer people in order to start generating electricity.

Actually, there is usually SOME residual magnetism, and you can get alternators to self-energize by revving the engine past 3, rpm, but it isn't necessary as long as you have a battery in the circuit. The "2" terminal was usually connected to the "I" terminal on the solenoid Ford-type solenoids or the starter side of the Delco starter-mounted solenoid.

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This provided excitation current to the alternator field windings during startup. Virtually all automobile alternators are self-exciting once started, so this wire is not needed after startup - but there is no harm leaving it connected via the jumper I mentioned, since, in operation, all 3 of the terminals are "hot" with the alternator's operating voltage and only the "BAT" terminal is carrying any amperage.

Of course, if you want to complicate things, you can rig an indicator light via the "1" terminal and rig a push-button to "flash" the field after the motor starts If you are going to use this alternator with a home-brew power setup or backup generator for a battery-backed PV system, you are going to want a separate battery to excite the fields and that push-button might be necessary.

It kind of looks like Delco-Remy, model 10SI, similar in appearance to the one shown on this page:.

alternator terminal identification

Certainly a car alternator - 12 volts most likely these days. You will need to turn it at RPM to get any meaningful output though.

Follow Asked by harry88 in Workshop. Tags: alternator Identify generator. Josehf Murchison Best Answer 6 years ago. Reply Upvote.

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Well it is a Delco GM or Chevy alternator should be 12 volts and can go as high as amps. The black wire of your battery goes to the housing.The alternator is one of many key components in a vehicle's overall operation. This component converts the mechanical energy of the engine transmitted by the engine's serpentine belt into electricity that keeps the battery charged and powers various electric accessories.

The alternator features several terminals that require proper identification for a successful installation. Connecting the wrong lead to the wrong terminal can cause damage to the alternator, as well as injury from shock.

Stand the alternator up on its bottom bracket with the pulley side facing toward you and the top bracket facing straight up. Face the rear of the alternator toward you, and find the threaded stud and nut on the back of the alternator near the topthe location of the output battery positive terminal. The battery positive lead connects to this terminal via a ring terminal connector, with the nut holding it in place.

Find the voltage regulator socket located on the side of the alternator at the 3 o'clock position. The voltage regulator connector plugs into this socket. Find the threaded stud and nut near the 5 o'clock positionthe location of the ground terminal connection.

alternator terminal identification

The ground lead attaches to this terminal. Keep in mind that some alternators come without a ground terminal. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. New car petrol engines image by Christopher Dodge from Fotolia. Step 1 Stand the alternator up on its bottom bracket with the pulley side facing toward you and the top bracket facing straight up.

Step 2 Face the rear of the alternator toward you, and find the threaded stud and nut on the back of the alternator near the topthe location of the output battery positive terminal. Step 3 Find the voltage regulator socket located on the side of the alternator at the 3 o'clock position.

Warning Always disconnect the negative ground terminal cable from the battery when working on any engine component. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.


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